Pacific Crest Trail: Week Three was All About the Good Food

The Pacific Crest Trail is a thru hiking adventure, that stretches 2,600 miles between Mexico and Canada. While my partner has been hiking since March 18 when I dropped him off on the border of Mexico, my adventure started the first week of May, with my good girl Chloe Rue at my side. We had to skip north of the Sierra Nevada Mountains this year, and plan to end with them. Instead, we started where our pets can officially join us: Old Station, California. Follow along for stories, dog tails and things I am learning on the way- about my dog, my partner and life in general.

Etna California is Awesome

Our third week on the trail involved some rest in a little known town called Etna, California. Truthfully, we had no intention to stop in this town, but we were extremely low on dog food (and human food). We hoped we might find something suitable in this town for the dogs to eat. Well, let me just say; we found SO much more in Etna than dog food.

We came off the PCT bedraggled after flopping between snow covered trail and easier to walk national forest roads. We chose road walks to bypass the larger mountains and we were glad that we did. When we came out along the highway, there were VERY few cars passing us by. It’s scary to walk on the highway with a dog! There was a teeny tiny shoulder is all; and I kept Chloe on a solid “heel” the whole time, nervous about how fast people drive.

We saw many logging trucks and waved, trying to catch a hitch because we did not have cell reception to reach out to any local trail angels. But what logging truck can possibly fit two dogs and two humans? Finally one of the few cars that had passed us (a nice looking jeep) turned back around just for us, and rearranged some belongings so we could all fit inside. We had found a ride! A couple who had recently taken this jeep across the country from ocean to ocean were happy to bring us to Etna (the opposite direction than they were going) and thrilled to hear our stories! It was fun to hear their stories too, about dodging wind storms in Joshua Tree and losing shoes in White Sands New Mexico. Sharing a traveling spirit always makes the journey so much more fun and it was a thrill to hear so many adventure stories.

We arrived to Etna and stayed at the city park for FIVE DOLLARS per night. It was an unbelievable experience! Showers, wifi, bathrooms, lockers, potable water all for a lonely 5 dollars. There was even a nice walking path for the dogs! As we walked through town for groceries, everyone stopped and waved at us excitedly. Apparently we were the first NOBO hikers to town and this tiny town thrives off of hikers.

I love supporting local businesses and smaller communities. The town of Etna is one that clearly caters to hikers, in allowing us the opportunity to support them. Every comment on far- out (an app that hikers use to communicate as we all hike up the trail) that offered even an inkling of confusion had been addressed. In 2021 someone asked, “Where are the ATM’s?” Not only did someone reply relaying the location, but a new ATM popped up right on Main Street, no questions asked. In 2022 a comment asked how to pay for nights spent at the city park. When we arrived a large (new) sign clearly indicated where PCT hikers can camp, how to pay using PayPal, venmo, check, or cash; and explained if there’s any confusion where the Chamber of Commerce was located and how to contact them. It’s amazing!

The community friendliness and the hiker accessibility were just extra perks when compared to the food. I don’t even know where to start in explaining how many food options there were, and how reasonably priced everything was; but it pales in comparison to how TASTY every meal was that we enjoyed. I have a few favorites. Baked Pears might sound strange, but these were FRESH pears right from a tree, stuffed with crumbs and cheese and spices that made every bite just melt in your mouth delicious. Not to mention, this was an upscale restaurant. They let Chloe Rue sit on the nice patio right at my feet; with other folks also outside with their dogs all sharing in the dining experience together. How awesome is that!

Etna also hosts a brewery that has ITS OWN ROOTBEER. I savored this rootbeer at every opportunity, enjoying its strong, rich taste. So many Oregonian rootbeers are light with extra vanilla or sugars added. Etna’s was strong, with the rootiest flavors. It tasted almost exactly like the rootbeer flavored lollipops you used to be able to get everywhere. I LOVED it.

The other MUST mention in Etna, was the outdoor store. Fully stocked with a lounge for hikers outside, topped with FREE DILLYBARS and a charging station, our dogs were welcome to the space and we enjoyed every second we spent talking with the owner of the store. In fact, she has a map full of pins from every place in the world where people come to visit while backpacking the PCT. Almost every continent and country in the world had representation- except for the state of North Dakota. Though I have lived in Oregon now for almost 3 years; Fargo, North Dakota usually pops out when people ask me where I am from. Typically it stems from my ongoing midwestern accent when I say certain things like “Oh, no bag please” or “Oofta that’s a great deal!” Therefore, I had the insane privilege of placing the FIRST EVER PCT HIKING PIN into the state of North Dakota in this outdoor store. I believe my trail name “Fargo” stemmed from this experience. Though it was a trail angel who said, “Fargo! How far CAN you go?” Who truly helped me decide to adopt the name.

My last paragraph about Etna is another rather Midwestern/European experience we enjoyed at a place called Mountain Spa. We took a NORDIC BATH and it was AWESOME. Epsom salts for our skin, a hot bath, cold bath, sauna and a shower with soaps all combined into a two hour experience I will never forget. The best part is that the dogs were welcome into the spa! We were served tea on an outdoor fenced in patio and had a private area for our soak; all shaded from the sun. When you’re dirty- like truly covered in MUD and sweat and blisters and wounds- well, that 2 hour soak was beyond blissful and worth every penny of our 25$ spent enjoying it.

Maybe Etna should have been all of our third week. I’m thinking I could have spent an entire week there. But after some regrouping, angel magic, small town charm and healing days we were ready to return to the Pacific Crest Trail, north bound to Oregon.

California’s Temporary Goodbye

Though I know we will be back in California soon to end our hike with the High Sierras and a Mount Whitney summit; the state has left an impression on me already. I had NO idea how beautiful Northern California’s mountain scenes could be, how rugged the terrain was; mixed from lava fields to beautiful elm forests to rocky craigs; and snow everywhere in between.

Our last night in California left us eager to return, with astonishing views of the valley below. Fire damage had wreaked havoc on the trail and we had been clambering over blow down (fallen trees) incessantly since returning to the trail. However, we reached a spot where there was a fellow hiker named “Just Tony.” In his 70’s, battling a knee injury, Just Tony had climbed over all this blow down and was determined to trek his way along the “Border Trail” over to the Oregon Coast, and complete the Oregon Coast trail. He was happy to meet us and our dogs, and had the best advice. “Slow down.” He said, “Stop for the beautiful views, jump into the cold rivers, and just enjoy it. You only hike the PCT for your first time, once.” He had thru hiked the PCT as a teenager in the SEVENTIES when packs weighed 100lbs and there were few trail angels, less markings and absolutely no cellphones to help you navigate. We encouraged Just Tony to seek some rest, with concern for his knee that was visibly swollen; but as a stubborn thru hiker, he was determined not to get off trail.

We continued up to a campsite Just Tony had recommended to us, and it was surrounded by astonishing views. As our last night in California, it was fitting to see tiny specks of life in the form of stunning pink flowers speckled around dead tree roots that were left over from the fire last year. It is beautiful to see healing and growth amidst an area of ash and burn.

We enjoyed lentils and beans; followed by a squished banana that we stuffed full of chocolate, peanut butter and gee (clarified butter); then roasted on our stove top to melt everything together. Maybe Etna was amazing for feeding us so well; but perhaps this night on the trail was comparable. Full bellies, happy hearts, staggering views, and a delectable dessert all followed by a family of four (two dogs and two humans) snuggled up together in a two person tent, on top of a mountain.

The journey continues in my FOURTH WEEK on the trail, crossing the Oregon border, summiting our first Oregon peak, dodging thunderstorms and finally reaching Ashland! Stay tuned for more PCT adventures. Chloe Rue wants you all to have many Happy Tails and Happy Trails ❤️

Barking Embarkers