Pacific Crest Trail: Week Nine included A Meal so Hearty

The Pacific Crest Trail is a thru hiking adventure, that stretches 2,600 miles between Mexico and Canada. While my partner has been hiking since March 18 when I dropped him off on the border of Mexico, my adventure started the first week of May, with my good girl Chloe Rue at my side. We had to skip north of the Sierra Nevada Mountains this year, and plan to end with them. Instead, we started where our pets can officially join us: Old Station, California. Follow along for stories, dog tails and things I am learning on the way- about my dog, my partner and life in general.

McKenzie Pass and the Lava Rock

After the pure joy of experiencing friends who supported us in person, and the unforgettable views from the Three Sister mountain range, it felt like the trail was tormenting us for fun by placing massive, painful lava rocks in our path. If you’ve ever visited some of the lava fields across the western United States before, you might know how difficult it is to navigate across these. The rock slips under your feet, and is sharp which destroys shoes. It is so painful to walk across it almost feels like you are barefoot. Thankfully the good dogs wore their little booties with dignity, knowing their bare feet on the hot black stones would be painful! I’ve seen some shredded paws coming off these rocks (that are from the depths of the earth itself) before and am grateful to say once again, a mixture of paw wax and dog booties came to the rescue. We waltzed across the painful rolling sharp rocks until they disappeared behind us that day; and we celebrated that we wouldn’t see any more for an extended period of time.

Mt Washington welcomed us with its sharp peak beaconing toward one of the most talked about stops along the Pacific Crest Trail: Big Lake Youth Camp. We had been looking forward to this stop, knowing the hiker box (a box full of free items for hikers, usually from other hikers or Angels nearby) was something to be celebrated, that there was a cabin JUST for PCTers and there were free meals if you made it there at the right time.

Seth and I roared our way through yet another burn area, to arrive safely at the Youth Camp. We had made it in perfect time for lunch and we were stoked about our timing. However as we approached we cringed at the sign before us:

No. Pets. Allowed.

We were devastated. I sat down there at the entrance and stared at my good girls knowing they might have to find a different shady place to rest at the heat of the day. I decided to let Seth go inside to talk to the office about our special circumstances. He had worked at 4H youth camps for almost a decade and really had a good understanding of the right language to use in the situation.

When Seth returned with a huge smile on his face, accompanied by a friendly host, we rose onto our paws with joy! They said the girls were welcome into the PCT Cabin, but could not interact with any of the campers.

WOW, what a cabin! It was cool on such a hot day after a hot burn zone. The amenities included a shower, laundry, and the hiker box definitely lived up to its name! We met a variety of friendly hikers including a couple from Korea who were terrified of dogs (we were determined to change their mind) and a gal who had traveled with the same group Seth knew from southern California. After a couple meals, a cool rest break, great conversation and fully charged devices, I knew one thing with absolute certainty. The ten dollars that a trail angel gave Seth and I after a ride back to the trail head in southern Oregon had a new home. We paid it forward here, knowing this place was something special for PCTers, but also for the Oregon community of children it served.

Jack to Jefferson

I had the privilege of returning to a place I previously explored once again as we crossed Santiam Pass into the Three Fingered Jack loop. It is fun to look back on solo trips I took with Chloe. I always wonder if she remembers the place based on the smells, the animals, or maybe based on my own familiar feelings with it. We were going the opposite direction this time as we followed the PCT. We ran into some snow and despite it being the 4th of July the trail nice and quiet.

It amazes me how fast we travel now. When I did the Three Fingered Jack loop solo; I was EXAHSTED after an 8 mile day from the saddle up to the top of the ridge. Yet on this day we camped with a view and marched 15 miles onward straight toward the glowing Mt Jefferson. The trail conditions were AWFUL. I knew it was a fire zone after we left the familiar backpacking loop that I had done a couple years back- but I had no idea how many trees would block our way. Chloe and I found success in just walking on top of the trees at times, as they lay across the trail in the hundreds. This was one of the worst blow down areas on the trail, including after Seid Valley. Thankfully, we made it through, pressing on toward the next mountain view.

As we neared Mt Jefferson, we met a solo hiker. He was a retired first grade teacher with a life partner who was a physical therapist (ironically she shared my name!) When I asked- do you want us to stick around and make sure you get through the snow safely? We were bonded. His goal was to make it to Mt Hood in less than 5 days- before we would arrive! We were rooting for him but also not especially sure he would make his goal time.

The Lionshead Fire area was upon us. This miserable portion of our journey was all ash, dust, dead trees and uphill. We knew once we reached the other side of Jefferson it would be clear- but there were miles of this torture first. My asthma kicked in due to the ash, and Chloe was panting, hot despite slack packing and having two white UV proof cooling cloths protecting her skin. I wanted to rush past this and never have to think about it again. Instead, the scene triggered the deep sadness I felt after losing my home in the fires of 2020. Knowing recently that the Power Company was to blame for the Lionshead fire we were trekking through, as well as the South Obenchain fire that took my little traveling home; I felt triggered. The Tuesday back in 2020 kept replaying in my mind- the shock that I couldn’t go home that day after work, the fear that I might not ever be able to go home, the thankfulness I felt for having Chloe at daycare that day. I let the scene play through my mind, and focused on the positives: how everyone came together to help me through that time period; near and far. I found that the repetitive steps forward were soothing, but the triggered feeling did not want to dissipate this day.

Olallie Lake Fish Fry

We camped at a rustic fishing resort that night, that was magically saved from the lionshead fire. The trees were green, large and beautiful. The lake was pristine. As we sat there, cooling off after a hard day; a group of fisher people approached us. Expecting the typical questions, I was surprised when they held up a HUGE plastic bag full of fresh rainbow trout.

“Is there any chance you all would like some fresh fish tonight?”

Seth and I looked at each other in excitement. “Absolutely!” I responded. In this choice entered a challenge: how to cook and eat enough fish for twelve humans in a single night. Then walked in a group of humans I was overjoyed to see. Our solo friend hiking at a rushed speed, our couple from Korea we met at Big Lake, and an inspiring triple crowner who said she’d been following us since Crater Lake. She was sad to pass us, loving that we left little dog prints every turn we took. ALL of us came together to prepare a fish fry!

It turned into one of my favorite nights on the trail. Despite the tough day where my mind was giving me trouble by being on repeat through a terrible time in my life; being surrounded by hikers working together felt amazing. We used some items from the store including fish breading and a frying pan. We esured it was safe to have a campfire in the proper area that night. Then we did it: we had a PCT fish fry!

Jefferson to Timberline

The next day we continued our trek, and we savored the connections we made at Ollalie lake every step of the way. The laughter and smiles shared even through communication barriers were absolutely amazing. We finally passed through the final stretch of the Lionshead Fire area, and continued to insanely stunning views of Mt Jefferson in Mt Jefferson Park.

Mt Jefferson Park is once again a limited entry area- and once again it was staggering in its beauty! Wildflowers, meadows, flowing streams that opened into glacial lakes filled the scenery. We trekked through, and then above to a campsite that felt so close to the mountain you could almost touch it. This was definitely my favorite campsite in Oregon and once again I found a place that I am excited to return again in the future.

As we neared Mt Hood, we camped on Timothy Lake. We were surprised to be confronted by what sounded like an air raid above us. It turned out to be 5 fire fighting airplanes, collecting water from the lake. We watched them dive down into the water, then soar back above us one after the other. It was absolutely incredible to see; and the thought that these people were dedicating their time to save some of the stunning wilderness of Oregon brought tears to my eyes. Firefighters are truly heros. It was this scene that made me feel like the scab that had opened up by walking through the Lionshead Fire of 2020 was healing.

Timberline

As we walked to Timberline Lodge, we were greeted once again by family! Seth’s parents met with us, and treated us to some days of rest and food. It felt AMAZING to be spoiled here. This is where the meal was SO HEARTY. The all you can eat breakfast and lunch buffets were the real deal. We had waffles, salmon, bagles and lox, yogurt, sweet treats- and this was all just for breakfast! Our dinner was also fantastic, where vegan donuts were the dessert that made me drool most.

While Timberline is pet friendly; in providing doggy bandanas, bowls, beds and poop bags they had one very essential item missing from the outdoor area: a trash bin! We are diligent about picking up the dog’s poop; especially since they usually pass 4 rounds of dog poop each on zero days due to eating such an abundance of food! Our very full poop bags had a hard time finding a place to be disposed in this fancy environment. If you are ever adventuring to Timberline with your pup- just be ready to walk all the way around the hotel to throw away your dog’s poop.

Once again, I leave this blog post for our next week on the trail; with our hearts, bellies and souls filled to the brim. We were all SO happy to see family on the trail, and it meant the world to be supported and loved on by Seth’s parents. The dogs felt the same way, and we all had an extra skip in our step as we ventured on down toward the lowest elevation point on the Pacific Crest Trail: toward Cascade Locks and the border to Washington! But that story will wait for next time.

Thanks so much for reading and as always we wish you endless Happy Tails and Happy Trails.

Barking Embarkers